P. Sze 
Gua sha is an excellent tool for promoting circulation, reducing inflammation, and improving skin health. For Black women, this technique can be particularly helpful in preventing breakouts and calming inflammation, which are common concerns due to melanin-rich skin’s sensitivity to irritation and scarring. Gua sha can help manage these issues while promoting a natural glow. For those new to the technique, you can find the basics in our gua sha guide here.
Here are five essential gua sha tips designed to address the unique skincare needs of Black women.
1. Choose the Right Gua Sha Tool for Melanin-Rich Skin
For Black women, choosing the right gua sha tool is critical, as melanin-rich skin can be more prone to hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring if irritated. Opting for a tool that offers cooling and soothing properties can help prevent these concerns while still delivering all the benefits of gua sha.
- Material: Select a tool made from jade or rose quartz. These materials are known for their cooling effects, which can help reduce inflammation and soothe irritated skin without overheating.
- Shape: Look for a tool with smooth, rounded edges that comfortably follow the natural contours of your face. This reduces friction, preventing irritation and the formation of dark spots.
“Black skin can be more prone to inflammation, so it’s important to use oil and be mindful of the pressure applied to avoid irritation,” advises Ms. Mai Sogawa, a senior TCM therapist.
By using a high-quality tool with a smooth glide, you reduce the chance of trauma, which could lead to hyperpigmentation—a common issue for Black women dealing with acne or inflammation.
2. Always Start with Clean Skin and Tools
Cleansing your face and gua sha tool properly is one of the most important steps to avoid breakouts. Black women often deal with issues like clogged pores and excess oil, which can lead to acne if bacteria is introduced to the skin during a gua sha session.
- Cleansing the skin: Use a gentle cleanser to remove dirt, oil, and makeup without stripping your skin of its natural moisture. Black skin can dry out easily, so it’s important to use a product that balances hydration and cleansing.
- Sanitizing the gua sha tool: Before every session, wash your gua sha tool with warm, soapy water, and sanitize it with alcohol to eliminate any bacteria. This will prevent the spread of germs that could lead to breakouts.
Starting your gua sha routine with clean skin and tools ensures that you’re not introducing any contaminants that could clog pores or trigger acne.
3. Use Gentle Pressure to Avoid Hyperpigmentation
Because Black skin is more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), it’s important to apply light pressure during gua sha to prevent irritation. Using the right technique will help prevent skin trauma that could lead to dark spots.
- Pressure: Apply only light to moderate pressure with your gua sha tool. Avoid pressing too hard, especially around sensitive areas prone to breakouts, such as the jawline or chin.
- Technique: Focus on slow, upward strokes, moving from the center of your face outward. This method encourages lymphatic drainage and promotes circulation without irritating the skin.
By being gentle, you reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation, which can occur when Black skin is subjected to even minor trauma or friction.
4. Use Non-Comedogenic Oils for Gua Sha
The right oil is essential to ensure your gua sha tool glides smoothly across the skin without causing irritation. For Black women, using a lightweight, non-comedogenic oil will prevent clogged pores and help manage breakouts while keeping the skin hydrated.
- Best oils for Black skin: Jojoba oil, argan oil, and grapeseed oil are all great choices. These oils are lightweight, hydrating, and won’t clog pores. Jojoba oil in particular mimics your skin’s natural sebum, helping to balance oil production.
- Application: After cleansing, apply a few drops of oil to your face to create a barrier between your skin and the gua sha tool. This ensures that the tool moves smoothly and prevents any pulling or dragging, which can irritate the skin.
“Both cleansing oils and facial oils reduce friction, but cleansing oils lift impurities. It’s better to use cleansing oil first, rinse it away, then apply skincare or beauty oil before performing gua sha,” recommends Ms. Sogawa.
Heavier oils like coconut oil should be avoided, as they can clog pores and lead to breakouts, especially for those with acne-prone skin.
5. Try These Two Gentle Gua Sha Strokes
Certain gua sha strokes are particularly helpful for preventing breakouts and reducing inflammation in Black women’s skin. These strokes promote lymphatic drainage, improve circulation, and help reduce puffiness without irritating sensitive, melanin-rich skin.
Jawline Stroke for Breakout Prevention
The jawline is a common area for hormonal breakouts, particularly for Black women. This gentle stroke helps relieve tension and reduce inflammation in the jaw area, preventing clogged pores and breakouts.
- How to perform: Hold the gua sha tool at a 45-degree angle against your skin. Start at the center of your chin and gently glide the tool along the jawline, moving toward the earlobe. Repeat 5 to 7 times on each side.
- Tip: Use very light pressure to avoid irritation and potential scarring, especially if you’re prone to acne in this area.
Forehead Sweep to Calm Inflammation
The forehead can sometimes become inflamed due to tension or clogged pores near the hairline. This sweeping stroke helps relieve tension and reduce puffiness, making it a great option for calming inflammation.
- How to perform: Starting in the middle of your forehead, use the flat side of the gua sha tool to sweep outward toward your temples. Repeat this motion 5 times on each side of your forehead, maintaining light pressure.
- Tip: This stroke helps promote circulation and calm inflammation without aggravating sensitive areas.
These two strokes, paired with the right technique and tools, will help Black women manage breakouts, reduce inflammation, and enhance the overall health of their skin. By practicing gua sha regularly and following these tips, you can achieve a clearer, more radiant complexion without triggering hyperpigmentation or irritation.
By incorporating these tailored gua sha tips and techniques into your skincare routine, you can enjoy the benefits of clear, healthy skin while preventing breakouts and inflammation common to melanin-rich skin.
